Welcome to Gardenandgreen.co.uk a website that began in 2007, that has information and content covering gardening, nature and greener living.
The Lavender in the photos is English lavender, which is more robust and can survive British winters better than some of the modern Spanish and French varieties, that have larger, frillier flowers. So, opt for English lavender if you want to ensure they last for years. Also, if you're not so keen on purple flowers, then it is possible to get a white flowering lavender, known as Lavender Alba.
Solar powered water features are great for small gardens. They can add interest to garden corners and create the relaxing sound of running water. If you are not familiar with them, they come with a small water pump and a solar panel, which charges the battery. Most can be used in the evenings, as well, using power from the battery. During the day the solar panel converts sunlight into electricity, no mains plugs are needed. You can set one up in just a few minutes by putting the pump in the water feature, placing the solar panel in a sunny place, and adding water. For example this one from Gardenis.co.uk.
Solar water feature - terracotta cascade / solar powered water feature – Gardenis.co.uk
Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that the seeds you buy will result in a plentiful harvest, there are numerous diseases that can badly affect crops. Below are some of the main vegetable plant diseases to look out for, and also some organic gardening methods to protect your plants from them.
1. Tomato blight: Caused by a fungal spore that thrives in warm, moist conditions, tomato blight can lead to the rapid decay of tomato plants. The best way to prevent it is to maintain good air circulation between plants, avoid overhead watering (point the watering can close to the base of the plant), and remove infected foliage immediately.
2. Clubroot: A soil-borne disease that attacks brassica crops (such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage), clubroot can cause stunted growth and distorted roots. To prevent it, rotate your crops, add lime to soil to maintain a pH of 7.2-7.4, and avoid planting brassicas in infected soil.
3. Potato blight: A common problem in wet summers, potato blight can cause the rapid decay of the potato plant. To prevent it, plant resistant varieties, maintain good air circulation, and remove infected foliage as soon as it appears.
4. Powdery mildew: A fungal disease that causes a white, powdery coating on leaves, powdery mildew can lead to plant stress and a reduced harvest. Control methods include spraying affected plants with a mixture of water and bicarbonate of soda, or using a milk spray solution.
5. Tomato Leaf Curl Virus – Tomato leaf curl virus is spread by whiteflies and causes the leaves on tomato plants to curl upward. Use yellow sticky traps to capture whiteflies, companion plant with marigold flowers, remove infected plants, and introduce parasitic wasps to control the whitefly population.
6. Verticillium Wilt – Verticillium wilt is a fungal disease that affects tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes. It causes the leaves to wilt and die, so cut off infected leaves and do not compost them. Rotate crops, and use crop covers to prevent spores from being spread.
7. Scab – Scab is a common potato disease that causes raised, black blemishes on the skins of the tubers. Improve soil drainage by adding organic matter and rotate crops to prevent the disease from spreading.
8. Grey Mould – Grey mould, or botrytis, is a fluffy grey fungus that can attack many different plants. It thrives in damp conditions and causes wilting and rotting of leaves and flowers. Remove infected parts of the plant, improve air circulation, and practice good hygiene in the garden.
IMAGE
Creative commons
Powdery mildew - Wiki / Pollinator
Freezing produce from the garden or allotment is great for making it last through the winter months when not much is growing. However, some fruit and vegetables freezes better than others, and some require blanching, which involves part cooking before cooling then freezing. The fruit and vegetables below can all be frozen without blanching being required, making freezing quick and easy, and are all known to freeze well, and look and taste good when they are defrosted.
1. Raspberries: Rinse raspberries thoroughly and drain off excess water. Spread the raspberries evenly on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Freeze for a few hours until solid. Then transfer the frozen raspberries to a freezer bag and seal tightly.
2. Blueberries: Rinse blueberries thoroughly and drain. Spread out the blueberries on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and freeze until solid. Transfer them to a freezer bag and seal tightly.
3. Blackberries: Rinse blackberries and drain. Pat them dry with paper towels. Spread out on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and freeze until solid. Transfer to a freezer bag and seal properly.
4. Peas: Blanching is recommended for peas, but if you want to freeze them without blanching, rinse and drain peas and spread evenly on a baking sheet. Freeze until solid before transferring them to a freezer bag.
5. Sweetcorn: Peel off the husk and silk from the sweetcorn, rinse and dry. Cut the kernels off the cob and spread them evenly on a baking sheet and freeze until solid. Transfer to a freezer bag and seal tightly.
6. Green beans: Rinse green beans and remove the ends. Cut them into bite-sized pieces, if desired. Spread the green beans evenly on a baking sheet and freeze until solid. Then transfer them to a freezer bag and seal tightly.
7. Broccoli: Cut broccoli into small florets and rinse them in water. Pat them dry with paper towels and spread them out evenly on a baking sheet. Freeze until solid before transferring them to a freezer bag and sealing properly.
8. Cauliflower: Cut cauliflower into small florets, rinse and dry them. Lay them out evenly on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Freeze until solid, then transfer to a freezer bag and seal properly.
9. Spinach: Rinse leafy spinach under running water, discard any damaged leaves. Dry the leaves and chop them into small pieces. Spread out the spinach evenly on a baking sheet and freeze until solid. Transfer to a freezer bag and seal tightly.
10. Strawberries: Rinse strawberries under running water and remove their stems. Dry them completely and freeze them on a lined baking sheet. Transfer the frozen strawberries to a freezer bag and seal tightly.
Order vegetable seeds from Thompson and Morgan here.
A plant that is proven to attract many British bumblebees is the Red clover (Trifolium pratense). This plant is a herbaceous perennial and is commonly found in grasslands and meadows across the UK.
Red clovers are particularly attractive to bumblebees because of the nectar-rich, bell-shaped flowers that bloom throughout the summer months. The flowers are a distinct shade of pink and are arranged in a dense, cylindrical cluster. Each flower produces a small amount of nectar in its base, which is easily accessible to bumblebees and other pollinators thanks to the flower's structure.
Research has shown that red clovers are highly effective at attracting bumblebees, particularly the common carder bee (Bombus pascuorum) and the buff-tailed bumblebee (Bombus terrestris). This is due to the high concentration of nectar produced by the flowers, which is essential for providing bumblebees with the energy they need to forage and pollinate other plants.
Numerous studies have shown that bumblebees have a strong preference for red clover and are attracted to its bright red and pink flowers. One study found that red clover was the most visited flower by bumblebees in a field experiment, with workers spending an average of almost 6 minutes per flower. Additionally, bumblebees have been shown to be highly efficient at collecting nectar and pollen from red clover flowers, with one study reporting that workers were able to collect up to 45 pollen grains per visit.
Overall, red clovers are an excellent choice for gardeners and land managers looking to create habitats for bumblebees. They are easy to grow, hardy and attract a wide range of other beneficial insects such as butterflies, moths, and hoverflies.
Image:
creative commons;
Bumblebee on Red clover / Ivar Leidus - Wikimedia
Charles Dowding has been growing organic vegetables for thirty years, always in a no dig way, in different gardens and countries. From 1998-2012 he cropped an intensive acre of surface composted beds in Somerset, principally for salad leaves as well as a wide range of vegetables, sold in local shops and restaurants. He has written four books on vegetable growing, writes articles for several gardening publications, gives talks, and runs courses, see www.charlesdowding.co.uk. Here he explains what 'no dig' gardening is, how to do it, and what the benefits are.
What does ‘no dig’ mean?
Two main things, no soil disturbance and encouraging soil life. You need never move a tool through the soil, except if you need to hoe. Spread a thin mulch of compost every year to provide food for worms and other soil life, helping them to maintain air channels and a good structure. My experience of thirty years has revealed how plants love to grow in undisturbed soil, even dense clay, whose surface is always dark and crumbly.
Is the first year the hardest with no dig?
Yes the first year needs most input, and things become easier after that. Initially some digging of large perennial roots may be required, such as docks, brambles and woody plants. If the soil is full of long lived perennial weeds such as couch grass and bindweed, you can mulch for a year with black plastic, perhaps growing a few large plants through it such as courgettes.
In the first year only of vegetable growing, I spread 6-12cm of compost/manure to help worms improve soil structure and raise fertility. I suggest when starting no dig that you begin with one or two beds and experiment to find your favourite methods. It may seem strange at first, planting into compost on top of undisturbed soil, but the rewards are huge, especially the reduction in weed growth.
How do you prepare soil for sowing?
Each autumn I spread 2-3cm of garden compost or animal manure, after clearing last year’s plants and any weeds. Frosts then break up the lumps and by spring the surface is soft and dark, excellent for sowing and planting. Rake very lightly before sowing, to smooth out the surface of slightly raised beds, for which a good width is 1.2m wide and with no wooden sides, to reduce slug habitat. Pathways of 0.5m mean that you need compost for about two thirds of the growing area.
How to create and maintain pathways?
Bare soil is best, to have less slugs and allow vegetables to root into pathways, which you can weed and hoe just like the beds. This is made easier by spreading about 3cm of rough compost on paths in the first year only. Also there is always a little compost falling from beds onto the paths and that is fine because path soil needs feeding too.
Why switch to no dig?
My experiments suggest that dug soil needs time to heal. Most scientists are only recently discovering about the life and structure of soil, how it is a delicate living organism which responds bountifully to correct care and feeding. Professor Elaine Ingham in the USA has pioneered many new understandings.
In different gardens over three decades I grow superbly healthy and high yielding plants with less addition of nutrients than is sometimes recommended – for instance, I do not feed tomatoes in the polytunnel (yet they yield well), I never use fertilisers, even organic ones, and I think the ever increasing amounts of soil life are mobilising the soil’s previously undeveloped potential, by maintaining an open structure for roots to travel in, and then helping those roots to find what they need, when they need it.
Do you recommend thick mulches?
For growing most vegetables I use just the thin mulch of compost, but mulching also depends on the climate, weeds and on what you want to sow or plant. Thicker mulches of partly rotted organic matter are good for dry conditions and for smothering abundant weed growth in just the first year of no dig, also for mulching soft fruit bushes and large vegetable plants such as courgette.
Doesn't soil have to be turned every three or four years to increase air and reduce weeds?
No way. My longest run of no dig was fifteen years and best growth was at the end, in the difficult weather of 2012. When soil inhabitants are fed, they can build an enduring structure which is aerated but firm: for instance one can walk on beds if need arises, and push wheelbarrow loads of compost on the permanent paths of soil. Yet roots such as carrot and parsnip go down happily.
Keeping weed free is easier than you may imagine because weeds germinate less in undisturbed soil and are easy to hoe or pull out of the soft, compost-fed surface. Regularly pull the few small weeds you see so that none ever set seed, resulting in clean soil and almost no weed seeds in the compost heap. In early spring there is often a small flush of weed seeds germinating from their winter dormancy, and from composts or manures, and a light hoeing is often needed in April.
Do you need fertiliser in no-dig gardening?
No dig allows the soil food web to remain active, so less nutrients need to be added, except where you know of mineral deficiencies. The only mineral additions I make are occasional dust from volcanic basalt, and seaweed, because I have a feeling that many soils are low on trace elements and therefore benefit from small additions of these intensely rich soil foods. Adding them to compost heaps or animal litter is another way of increasing soil health.
Is no dig gardening a new practice?
No dig has been practised forever, yet has never caught on generally. I am unsure why, but have noticed that it is difficult to be ‘different’! However, I am now finding a rapidly growing interest in my work, through books, the talks I give and courses I run, and from successes enjoyed by gardeners when they stop digging. My website www.charlesdowding.co.uk is full of advice on many topics, including six years’ results from my experiment of four beds 1.5x2.5m, comparing growth of the same vegetables between the two dug beds and the two undug beds.
What has the experiment revealed so far?
Total harvests are similar from the dug and undug beds, but there are also some fascinating differences. Vegetables grow faster in spring on the undug beds, especially onions and spinach, while there are more weeds on the dug beds. Parsnips root better into the undug soil and potatoes are the only vegetable to prefer the loose, dug soil. Slug damage is more evident on the dug beds, I think because they like the smooth surface of clay soil to slither over, compared to the rougher surface of compost on undug beds. And when watering, water runs more easily into the undug soil.
Images:
Images all show 'no dig' gardens.
Image Copyright; Charles Dowding.
First published - 7th November 2012
Forest gardens were first common in some tropical countries, where people would grow various types of trees together, so they would have a regular supply of all types of food, such as coconuts, pineapples, cocoa etc. An earlier pioneer of forest gardens in temperate climates, was Robert Hart (1913 - 2000), a smallholder from Shropshire. Finding traditional annual vegetable beds and livestock a lot of hard work, as he reached old age, he decided to plant a range of trees and plants, in a garden, just 500m2 / 0.12 acres in size.
Using natural woodlands as a model, he devised 7 layers within the forest garden (see illustration above). So not only did the forest garden contain trees, it also had understoreys, such as shrub layer, using fruit bushes, such as gooseberries and blackcurrants.
A forest garden can be created in all sizes of garden, simply by adapting the number of trees and types of layers based on the size of the garden, and if you use the lawn space, you will be surprised at how many more trees you can fit in. Even in a very small garden you could grow a mini version, with a few dwarf stock fruit trees, and some fruit bushes, along with raspberries, blueberries, and some root vegetables. Larger gardens can have a wider variety of trees, and more of them.
Once the trees are planted, and watered when they are young during dry periods, the garden will be low maintenance (much less work than mowing a lawn every few of weeks). The only tasks will be harvesting produce, once the trees and bushes are established, and some yearly pruning and coppicing, if required.
As well as providing food and resources, the forest garden will look beautiful, especially in spring, when many of the trees will be full of blossom. Another great thing about the forest garden, is the benefits to wildlife. Compared to a manicured lawn, the garden will be so much more wildlife friendly, providing food and shelter for birds, and loads of nectar for bees and butterflies.
When thinking of a forest garden, most people will probably be thinking about how they could plant one in their back garden, but don't forget to consider using front garden space. Many older properties have large lawns in the front, that rarely get used, and this could be the perfect space for your forest garden.
There are a lot of different trees that can be used in a forest garden, but here are some of the best:
Apple Trees - Apple trees are not only beautiful, especially in spring, when they are covered in blossom, but they also produce a delicious fruit that can be used in a variety of ways, from pies to sauce.
Cherry Trees - Cherry trees are another type of fruit tree that can be used in a forest garden. The cherries can be eaten fresh or used in pies, jams, and other recipes.
Fig Trees - Fig trees are a type of tree that produces a sweet fruit that can be eaten fresh or dried. They are also a good source of shade.
Hazelnut Trees - Hazelnut trees produce a nut that can be used in cooking or eaten as a snack. They are also a good source of wood for fuel or construction. The branches, like willow can be used to make hurdle fences.
Walnut Trees - Walnut trees produce a nut that can be used in baking. They are also a good source of wood for fuel, woodwork or construction.
Oak Trees - Oak trees are a good source of wood for fuel or construction. They are also a source of acorns, which can be used to feed animals or ground into flour.
Pine Trees - Pine trees are a good source of wood for woodwork, fuel or construction. They are also a source of pine nuts, which can be eaten as a snack or used in cooking.
Cypress Trees - Cypress trees are a good source of wood for fuel or construction. They are also a source of Cypress cones, which can be used to make a Tea.
Willow Trees - Willow trees are fast growing and a good source of wood for fuel or woodwork. They are also a source of willow bark, which can be used to make a Tea. Branches can be used to weave baskets, and hurdle fences.
Mulberry Trees - Mulberry trees are a good source of wood for fuel or construction. They are also a source of mulberries, which can be eaten fresh or used in pies, jams, and other recipes.
Elder - The flowers of the Elder shrub can be used to make refreshing Elderflower cordial. if some of the flowers are left on the bush, they will become elderberries. These can be turned into a syrup, that can be added to stewed blackberries, stirred into deserts, or added to alcoholic or soft drinks.
Blackthorn - Adding a blackthorn bush to a forest garden will provide a harvest of sloe berries, that can be used to make the traditional British winter drink, Sloe Gin.
Crab apple - The fruit from the crab apple tree can be used to make crab apple jelly, which can be served with lamb or cold meats, as well as being suitable for cream teas, spreading on toast, cake filling etc.
Pear - As with apple trees, pear trees are available on different rootstocks. This means the same exact same variety of fruit can grow to different heights, depending on the rootstock code. So, if you have a small garden you can plant a dwarf rootstock, so the fruit tree will only grow a metre or so tall, but still produce the exact same type of pear to a much larger tree. The pears can be enjoyed as a piece of fruit, or use in crumble, cakes and drinks.
Plum - There is many different types of plum, so no need to stick to just one type when planting a forest garden. Eat as a healthy snack, or use in puddings, or make jam.
Holly - Use the berries and leaves at Christmas to create traditional door wreaths, and to decorate picture frames, mirrors, and the fireplace indoors.
Images:
Creative commons;
Robert Hart's forest garden in Shropshire / Quercusrobur - Wikimedia
Forest layers / Quercusrobur - Wikimedia
First published - 13th January, 2022
Five varieties of British butterflies, that can all be found in British gardens. Plant nectar rich flowers, such as Buddleia, and leave a wild patch of nettles, in the corner of your garden, for caterpillars.
Music - https://www.bensound.com
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Companion planting has long been a popular organic gardening method. This is when plants are planted alongside each other for beneficial reasons. One of the most well known planting companions is french marigolds planted next to tomato plants, to deter whiteflies. A new study by scientists at Newcastle University have proved that this method works and is not just an old gardening myth.
The research team, was led by Dr Colin Tosh and Niall Conboy. The researchers carried out two big glasshouse trials. Working with French marigolds in the first experiment, they established that the repellent effect works and that marigolds are an effective companion plant to keep whiteflies away from the tomato plants.
Newcastle University PhD student Niall said: “We spoke to many gardeners who knew marigolds were effective in protecting tomatoes against whiteflies, but it has never been tested scientifically. We found that the chemical which was released in the highest abundance from marigolds was limonene. This is exciting because limonene is inexpensive, it’s not harmful and it’s a lot less risky to use than pesticides, particularly when you don’t apply it to the crop and it is only a weak scent in the air. Most pesticides are sprayed onto the crops. This doesn't only kill the pest that is targeted, it kills absolutely everything, including the natural enemies of the pest.”
Read the full Newcastle of University research paper HERE
Buy Marigolds from Thompson and Morgan HERE
Advice from Bob Willard, general manager of de Jager Bulbs
Rarely do you see Dahlias in florists or supermarkets, but cut Dahlias do make a spectacular floral display in British homes during late Summer and early Autumn. Once grown by our parents and grandparents, they somehow got lost along the way, became less popular and labelled with that ultimate insult of the modern world “old fashioned”.
A few years ago the Dahlia started fighting back and showing its class and staying power. Led by the Bishop series, the Dahlia is now seen as contemporary and is returning to popularity amongst gardeners. Perhaps it is the fiery shades of red, gold and orange flowers that erupt from bronze foliage that make it a truly unforgettable sight. Growers across Europe have been working furiously to introduce further variations and now you’ll find a growing collection of equally novel varieties combining fashionable blooms complemented by dark foliage.
One of the few sights from last summer that stayed with me so vividly over the harsh winter is of dahlias basking in the borders of an ‘open’ garden. I can see them now, the red hot tones jostling among the fiery foliage and flowers of their exotic neighbours. Take heed, for new trends in growing Dahlias have certainly begun.
You can plant them in their traditional home in the vegetable plot or on the allotment, great if you would like to cut them, or give them a brand new starring role focusing on the Bishop varieties or the large Dahlia Cactus or Semi-Cactus.
Dahlia tubers can be readily bought in the garden centre but you will be sure to get top quality top size tubers and a better and far wider choice if you look to a specialist supplier. In this season’s de Jager catalogue you will find a staggering 55 varieties including 15 new or reintroductions. I particularly like the look of the spectacular Avignon and Cambridge and the striking Vancouver. There is also memories of Grandma with Dahlia pom poms such as Jan van ‘Schaffelaar or Franz Kafka.
Whether you fancy trying a new look with the more recently introduced Dahlias in the flower borders or will be sticking with the more traditional uses and growing them for cutting, you need to make a start March/May.
Once Dahlias are purchased, store them somewhere cool, but frost free. Whilst it’s quite possible to plant the tubers out directly into open ground in May, many gardeners prefer to get them going early by starting them off in a greenhouse as early as March or April.
Whatever the case, the secret is to have prepared your soil thoroughly for these hungry plants, incorporating plenty of manure. Plant with the crown slightly above the soil. Do not divide the roots prior to planting. After planting water well and keep the soil moist but not wet. Increase watering as the plant grows. Once planted they will respond well to regular applications of liquid feed, such as either Miracle Grow or Phostrogen. Don’t forget to protect them from slugs!
Then simply sit back and enjoy the wonderful blooms that you will surely see, but there is one more trick that you need to play to get the best out of your Dahlias if you are leaving them in the borders, in a word, dead head! This will encourage new buds to form, giving you more flowers and a longer flowering season.
You can of course save the plants for future years by cutting the foliage off just above ground level and lifting the roots to over-winter in the greenhouse, but wait until the first frost has turned the foliage black. Then remove all the soil, dust with sulphur and leave in trays in a frost-free shed, ready to be planted again next spring.
Images (credit - DeJager)
Dahlia Franz Kafka (Ball & PomPom)
Dahlia Cactus City of Alkmaar (Cactus Dahlias)
Dahlia Otto's Thrill (Dinnerplate 10 inches width)
Dahlia Mexican Star (Single Flowered)